What is your favorite motorsports experience?  Personally, I’ve enjoyed driving at Willow Springs, Texas Standing Mile, Las Vegas Motor Speedway, Texas World Speedway, and Fontana Speedway.  And I often think about the incredible experience of driving Audi R8 Supercars at Infineon Raceway, or competing in autocross, and even driving Sprint Cars on a dirt circle track.  And recently being filmed for the Speed Channel for a car enthusiast program was a special treat. 

Ultimately, my thoughts rest on one ultimate experience, and one alone.  The year was 2004, but I remember it as clearly as if it were just last week.  I was selected as one of four US motorcycle riders, of over 10,000 applicants, to test ride the fastest production BMW motorcycle at the world famous Nurburgring racetrack, the legendary Nordschleife (North Loop), in Germany.

It’s a little nerve wracking, to find a website stating, “The Nurburgring Nordschleife is the most beautiful racetrack on earth, but equally the most dangerous too.”  Although I am the former National Managing Director of the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, a former MSF RiderCoach, an enthusiastic and experienced rider, and have owned 11 different motorcycles over my 22 years of riding, I secretly wondered if I am up to the challenge.  

I started my journey from Southern California.  Battling hours of cramped coach seating with a choir of infant crying, I arrive the next day at the Dusseldorf airport and spot a driver holding a placard that reads, “BMW Motorrad.”  I feel like a celebrity, as three other riders join me in the shuttle and we’re off to the Dorint Hotel.  The other riders, Jeremy, Adam, and Roberto, are from France and Latin America, and we overcome language barriers with the universal language of motorcycles.  We see a variety of high speed motorcycles and cars during the 90 minute van ride.  As we approach the Dorint Hotel and the beautiful Eifel Region, we see Ferraris, Porsches, and BMWs darting in and around the Hotel.  Hordes of motorcyclists are arriving too, mostly to observe Michael Schumacher, Scuderia Ferrari Marlboro F1 Driver, who is doing demonstration laps on the Nurburgring circuit.

It’s a flurry of activity, as tens of thousands of motorsport fans scurry about the racetrack grounds.  With a rumored two-year waiting list, the Dorint Hotel is an amusement park for well-connected adults.  I note that in just two short hours, we’ll gather for our first introduction to the K1200S.  The motorsport theme prevails throughout the hotel rooms and common grounds.  When was the last time you were in a hotel that had cars and motorcycles hanging in mid air, and glass cases displaying automotive memorabilia?  Even the framed prints on my hotel room wall depict famous German cars.  And nothing surpasses the view from my balcony, an honest to goodness racetrack, that provides a much cherished venue.  If the Nurburgring is known as the “Green Hell,” then I can only wonder what heaven is like. I prepare myself mentally, as I check my back protector, boots, gloves, helmet, and armored riding suit.

Thirty lucky, lifelong motorcycle enthusiasts from sixteen different countries, hand-selected are now en route to meet our trusty steeds.  Excitement is high and the bus a buzz with adrenaline.  Stories of motorcycles, experiences, and track tales fill the air.  Status here is measured in the depth of scratches on boots and knee pucks.  The only language spoken here is speed, and the only things that matter are experience and technique.

Amongst the burble of conversations, I focus my mind on the K1200S, mentally recapping my expectations.  The BMW website proclaims: “This blindingly fast, hyper nimble, one-of-kind supersport is the fastest, most powerful BMW motorcycle ever created.”  The specifications are indeed impressive, zero to sixty mph in 2.8 seconds, an awe-inspring168-horsepower engine, and a top speed left unstated for legal reasons. 

Almost instantaneously, silence shrouds the bus, as thirty heads flick in rapid succession to the left, as we spy a serpentine collection of the beautiful beasts, skillfully arrayed, like shimmering beads of a pearl necklace.  We quickly depart the bus, and began to inspect the machines.  Astrid Busch, event organizer extraordinare for BMW Deutschland, calls for attention, as she welcomes us and discusses procedures.

We do a brief walk around, verifying with our senses and touch, what we have only heard.  Many inspect the fascinating Duolever system, composed of two parallel links supporting the alloy wheel carrier and mounted into the frame.  BMW claims this enhances the handling by being extremely light and also very rigid.  The tail end bears the familiar BMW paralever swingarm. Underneath the sleek and elegant fairing, lies the heart of the beast, and 167 well-trained ponies await.  Having done our homework, the majority of the group can’t see, but knows the 79x59mm oversquare cylinders in the dry-sump four are angled at a 55 degree slant, effectively lowering the center of gravity and providing space for the trick front suspension. 

In an amazingly efficient fashion, Astrid has us all saddled up.  The bikes are assigned, so each rider and that rider alone, will ride the exact same motorcycle over the three days.  Efficient, as well as safe, as we must become intimately familiar with each of our rides.

Helmut Pohl is my instructor of choice for the 3 days of riding that follows, a 15-year veteran of the Nurburgring, accomplished off-road and on-road motorcyclist and respected driving instructor.

Safety first, and Helmut pulls the group aside to show us a portion of the track from a spectator’s view, a ascending section traveled at high speeds with a sharp blind bend to the right.  We witness motorcycles and performance cars dancing within seconds of each other, and you had better know your lines, your machine, and your abilities, before you dance with the devil in this place known as “the Green Hell.”  Helmut adjusts our tire pressures, as we watch in amazement, seeing a motorcycle fly by at flat out speed, to be immediately shadowed by a Porsche 996 on its back, both disappearing into the blind corner beyond.

Helmut guides us through a refreshing tour of the breathtaking countryside along with a stint on the autobahn, which has oft been described as the pinnacle of the driving experience.  It is quite remarkable to travel along this phenomenon, the surfaces in superb shape, and the drivers are cooperative, attentive, and skilled – the real beauty is not just the structure of this road, but those who travel upon it. 

The hidden treasures this evening lie not in a straight line.  Helmut is the perfect guide, leading us through the curvaceous Eifel region.  Impressive to this Southern California local, is the lack of car-cluttered roads, and the striking beauty of the evergreen countryside.  Some of these roads are so pure and smooth, that they look like they are crafted for bicycles, in a serene national park.  We are definitely taking the roads less traveled today, and what a delight that is, to find such purity readily available.  On several of the ascending tightly twisting roads, it feels as if we are doubling back on ourselves, and Stacy later jokes that he is able to see his own taillight several times through some of the turns.  We all have a good laugh.

Enchanting roads, beautiful bike, fine company – a perfect trio.

In motion, the K1200S feels light, nimble, and fluid.  This is no small bike, but it feels exceptionally manageable and precise.  The accommodations are generous and well suited.  The saddle is nicely sculpted and provides room for movement and comfort.  It seems that this could serve as a perfect sport tourer, providing the perfect “room for two with a view.”  I also find that the K1200S seating allows welcome room for movement, something I found less available on the K1200RS that I had owned.

At our initial speeds I find the throttle very responsive, and feel I am only using a fraction of the power that remains.  Desire – now that’s a different matter altogether, and I am sure we’re all anxious to unleash the power that lies ahead, as one can sense there are enormous reserves of readily available power, and these 168 horses are ready to stretch their legs.

We top our gas tanks at a local petrol station, and shoehorn our bikes in the Dorint Hotel underground garage for the night.  All motorcycle keys go to Helmut for safekeeping – perhaps discouraging any midnight joyrides, and we meet later that evening for dinner with the larger group at the Dorint.

Our group takes each meal together, and it’s a time to compare notes – as most of us are just getting comfortable with the controls on the K1200S.  Having owned exclusively BMW Motorcycles for the past five years, a R1200C, a K1200RS, and currently a R1100S Boxer Cup Replika, I’m already quite familiar with the switches and controls, yet each bike is still vastly different in terms of specific ergonomics.

The excitement in the air has intensified, as we make our way down to the garage to mount up and make our way to the Ring on the local roadway.  The entrance to the Nordschleife (north loop) is a flurry of activity, and although the course is closed for our use, the Motorrad Action Team is also present with a large gathering of motorcyclists.  Almost every sport bike imaginable is represented at the Ring today, from exotics, to even dual purpose motorcycles.  After moving all the bikes into position, there are speeches, morning exercises, and a collective reflection upon the day ahead.

After what feels like an eternity, our group moves out onto the course.  We ride partially through the course and then stop to cone off a section of a few turns to practice.  Safety is foremost, and our instructor Helmut tells us to pass around and inspect the helmets of one another.  We absolutely must be familiar and comfortable with the various fastening systems, in the event of an accident, so that we can provide comfort to the rider if needed. Helmut reviews the rules of the track, and explains the importance of every procedure.  We discuss the ambulances, their locations, proper passing, proper stopping locations and travel paths in the event of an emergency.  Only then, after all details have been covered and understood, do we move on, as is the German way.  Order, structure, efficiency, all in a modest and straightforward fashion is the norm. 

Helmut encourages us to notice the details, to take into account the small picture, as well as the big.  We work the sections, in order to be able to mentally piece the track together as a whole.  He points out landmarks, signs, and road markings that will be useful later, in crafting the perfect line through the course.  It is a superb strategy, for the Ring is so long, with so many twists and turns and rises and drops, to attempt to take it all in at once would be overwhelming.  To memorize the Ring seems daunting.

Later, when we rest, we discuss the Karussell, and the importance of maintaining a consistent and proper throttle speed, too fast and you will pop out of the circle, too slow and you will fall to the center.  Helmut suggests that we ride with our right forefinger upon the brake lever, as a brace, to support the remaining fingers and provide a steady throttle selection.  His recommendation works, and on every subsequent lap, I am able to confidently and successfully navigate the Karussell. 

Our speed increases with each subsequent lap, each time we travel through and around 72 distinctive corners, each one with it’s own story, it’s own place in history, and it’s own challenges in store for us.  During the breaks, which are few and far between, I ponder about what it must be like to be a professional motorcycle rider.  Stamina, quick reflexes, superb hand-eye coordination, peak physical conditions, are all qualities that would enhance one’s performance in most any sport.  But mental strength and fortitude must be what separates a racer from the common man.  The Nurburgring offers zero forgiveness for error.  Intimidating metal barriers and the lack of run-off or even impact absorbing tires are strikingly apparent.  I do not know how the professionals become comfortable with omnipresent fear.  And I know there is a reason for two separate ambulances crews, ready-to-go, and stationed at strategic track entry points.

But we have our task clearly identified, and it takes all of my concentration to focus on following the ideal line of our instructor.  Helmut has warned us, that it is absolutely imperative that we follow his line, and he warns us “if you are more than 1 meter off my line, at the speeds we will be traveling, there will be consequences.”  His line at times does not seem to be ideal for the (moderate) speeds we are initially traveling.  But over time the truth is becoming clear. As our velocities increase, we begin to see the true value of his line.  As the velocities increase further, we see not only the brilliance of his line, but the dire necessity.

The secrets of the Nurburgring are many, and Helmut does his very best to teach us as many as possible, in a way that we will remember.  One the second day, Helmut decides to further explore braking capabilities of the bike, and he asks us to stand at different places on the track, in a line, in an effort to guess where we think he will stop the bike at different speeds.  Then, we proceed through numerous braking exercises, using full actuation of the brakes prior to ABS activation.  Impressive – as the bike stops quick and sure.  But most impressive are the exercises where we are told to travel at speeds up to 150 km, activate the ABS by pulling hard on the levers, and then steer to avoid a banana that Helmut has placed on the course.  Amazingly, the K1200 S displays its ability to accept and execute steering input while under full braking power.

Helmut is full of interesting instructional methods, and in order for him to show us just how much influence the descents on the Ring can have, he takes us around the course, and at the opportune time, he instructs us all to shift into neutral.  Sure enough, we coast and coast, under no engine power, accelerating along until the speedometer indicates100 km, due simply to the extreme course descent.  If I didn’t experience it myself, I wouldn’t have believed it.

And such is the Nurburgring.  It is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for me to assess and challenge everything I have learned in almost two decades of riding.  It is more than a test of the K1200 S, it is a test of all theories, beliefs, and opinions I have about motorcycle riding.  The K 1200 S has more than proven itself to me over these 3 days of riding.  It says a lot that a company would take their brand new open class sport tourer and place it in the hands of thirty unaffiliated riders with no restrictions on the most challenging road course in the world.  But now I can finally understand why.  The K1200S defies definition.  It is not simply a sport tourer.  Having owned three Honda VFR’s in the past, the K1200S’s overall balance and competency reminds me of that jack-of-all trades quality that made the VFR a legend.  And the K1200S does everything that my VFR’s could do, but it does these tasks faster, better, and smoother.  It is undoubtedly the finest motorcycle that I have ridden.  It took the most challenging riding task I will likely ever face, and made it do-able.  I am not a professional rider.  But the K1200S made me feel like one.

BMW called this contest, “The K1200S Test Ride Event” and I can certainly see why.  It was much more than a mere “test ride,” for myself and the other riders.  This was truly an unforgettable event.  For three days, we shared advice, fears, and joys with one other on our team.  All aspects of the event worked very smoothly.  Everything was perfectly executed.  We were treated like royalty as soon as we arrived.  And every single meal was organized and paid for.  In fact, anytime we tried to pay for something, be it gas, food, or drinks, we were simply informed, “it’s been taken care of.”  Local people would approach and inspect the motorcycles, and a local enthusiast magazine even grabbed their video cameras for an impromptu interview our thoughts on the new bike.

At the end of our track time on the Nurburgring, Christian Pfeiffer, World Stunt Riding Champion performed for us.  We saw him effortlessly execute fast wheelie circles, switchback slides, his signature 110 degree 1 o’clock wheelie, a stoppie kiss for his wife, and a handstand flip.  We were all blown away by his non-stop energy and amazing stunts.

On the final evening, we were all invited to gather at the BMW World Gala for the “Rider of the Year” award.  We were treated to a fun program that evening that highlighted the skills of the various contestants, and ended up with a lucky winner being selected as the Rider of the Year.  As I clapped my hands in celebration for the lucky gentleman, I knew that I was also celebrating for myself and my fellow K1200S test riders.  We were all huge winners.  For three full days, the secrets of the Ring were carefully disclosed to us, while we rode a very special motorcycle, upon a beautiful and legendary backdrop.

For three magical and unforgettable days, we were truly, Lords of the Ring.